We arrived into Mestia before dark and were treated to blue skies and a rising “almost” full moon. Such a nice change of atmosphere as opposed to “wearing” the rain. The air is crisp and fresh and clear. Night is coming on and the temperature is dropping. It’s a most spectacular setting with this ancient village nestled deep in a valley below the towering Caucasus Mountains.
This sight would rival any mountain village in Europe or the States. Take a look at the header on my blog page and you will see a panorama of these mountains. Keep in mind that Russia (Chechnya and Dagestan) are just over the mountains. Might want to Google Earth to get your bearings. This part of our glorious planet is still fairly untouched by the civilized hand, rugged and wild.
It’s an early morning(amidst errant snowflakes) and we’re headed into the village to check out one of the unique defensive towers…called “Svan Towers”. Meeting up with one of the locals whose family has lived in these towers for generations, the lady is happy to give us a tour of the old(primitive) living quarters and a chance to climb up into the tower.
These towers are synonymous with this region of the country known as “Svanetia”. During the Middle Ages these towers were used for protection as well as communication. They could signal their neighbors in the valley with fires lit atop the towers. As soon as the next one saw the signal then they would light their fires and the signal would be passed from tower to tower thereby warning/alerting the entire community of impending danger. Each of these towers is exactly the same style and construction, same dimensions and height. They each had 4-5 “floors” made of wood and windows at the top for viewing the surrounding valley.
The living quarters could hold upwards of 25 family members in a split-level accommodation of
cows on the bottom, people on top.
Now I know the Swiss built their houses with a “barn” underneath and somehow that seemed to make sense…but this arrangement seems a bit too personal..no such thing as “personal space” back then. Those were rough times and any bit of warmth surely helped.
Survival was far more important than having a
So now for a climb up into the tower. We are lucky as most towers are not “climbable” since the wooden floors have long since rotted away, but our host has maintained the floors in her tower so we venture forth.
Access is by a very steep set of stairs to a small platform at the door…mind your head OUCH! or you are likely to come away with a nasty knot on top!
Once thru the opening it’s another steep ladder/staircase up to the next level. There’s not much space in here and you immediately are faced with yet another ladder…too much for me. I’m sharp…I get the idea with just two levels.
Once I’m down and out…. we’re off for a long day’s ride to the Black Sea resort town of Batumi. It’s about 267km(166 miles) and about 5.5 hrs away. The roads are definitely not super highways so 166 miles is a little “longer” than what we are used to back home.
The trade-off is a lot of interesting sights and scenery along the way including dodging those cows and pigs again. Along the way a quick stop for lunch at a tiny roadside “cafe”… with tables all set and ready for us….the staples
appear…tomatoes and cucumbers, khachapuri cheese pie and local beer. The cafe overlooked the northern end of the Enguri Reservoir. Everything is delicious and what’s better it was a “small” meal and quick to help us on our way. I must confess….all this going and going and going had my batteries on low and a recharge was needed…so, I slept for a few miles. Hey, sometimes you just “gotta” do that.
As we made our way down to the coast the topography of the land started to morph into the typical coastal lowlands…more waterways and streams heading to the sea. Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate therefore you’ll find no luminous reports of sunny shores and waves crashing on the shoreline.
It was a grey afternoon and that translated to a fairly monotone landscape. So, when we saw the skyline of Batumi looming on the horizon it was a bit surreal.
Government entities and private investors are hard at work trying to transform a glum “soviet-style” cement city into possibly….
“Las Vegas Casinos? or maybe
Disney World? Or…? Well, I’m not quite sure…suffice to say its an amalgamation of many imaginations.